Category Archives: Writing

Think like a Chef – LBB#3

The best chefs I’ve met are ones that can do two things really well:

a) have a clear vision for what the finished product will be and then go out, select the best ingredients and prepare them accordingly
b) when presented with any number of ingredients, quickly be able to determine how best to utilize them to their fullest potential and in combination

Cooks that can do both experience the complete freedom that comes with those skills. The exhilaration that comes the first time you walk into a market with nothing but some money and have a great meal determine itself is incomparable. Some people may never get excited by this, and always set out, recipe and shopping list in hand. There is nothing wrong with that approach and it usually delivers predictable results, but to truly feel in command of the craft and be confident that you will be able to make something interesting no matter what you find is something else. I liken it to the experience so many others who work with their hands express in various ways and metaphors – that it is the block of stone itself and its characteristics that determines the finished sculpture, if you will.

This approach opens the doors to a world of new ideas and infinite possibilities, so that one begins to stop following recipes and ideas they have seen and instead begins to create them easily. The intention of these scribbles is committing these principles to heart and also to provide some reference to those basics upon which all good cooking is built.

(Forgive the overdone cliché, but I’ve always been a “teach a man to fish” person myself, and believe wholeheartedly that the greatest gift you can ever share with others is the knowledge you have gained, and hopefully they will do the same.)

So where to begin? let’s talk about making food INTERESTING!

In 1989, I read “Chez Panisse Cooking” by Paul Bertolli and Alice Waters, and it really changed the course of how I felt about approaching food as a young cook. In addition to some great recipes and ideas, there are two chapters in that book, one on quality ingredients and another on making a menu that have lasted with me my whole career. My copy is well worn and full of highlighted passages and key concepts that any cook should take to heart. One that has always stuck with me is this:

“A menu that does not excite those who cook it will not excite those who eat it”

SO true, and in order to make food exciting to cook, we have to look at what makes food exciting to eat.

Food touches all of the senses. We taste, we smell, see colour and shape, feel texture and temperature, and hear sounds as we eat.

All of these elements together create a palette from which an infinite number of combinations affects you differently whenever you put food on your table. Chefs are always trying to push the senses to the limits in never before thought of ways, but the underlying principles that make food taste good are unchanged. Here are those I always go by:

Variety and diversity in textures and the elements of taste make for interesting food; avoid monotony
Contrast is as important as harmony; but avoid extremes and imbalance
Food that comes from the same place (time/season or location) usually works together
Fresh and ripe rules every time

Let’s explore this a bit more, as I walk you through the process I use to go from “what am I going to make” to a finished meal:

Step 1: Visualize

When deciding what to cook, we have to draw on what we have to work with. Working through the following will usually have you pretty close to an idea of what you want to do.

Available ingredients – what do I have, or can I get NOW!
Past experiences – what worked, what didn’t, likes, dislikes, etc
Olfactory (smell) and gustatory (taste) memory – picture how something will taste or smell in your mind
Sensory triggers – something catches your eye or a smell, a sound, the feel of a raw ingredient gets you thinking of an idea

Step 2: Flavour profile

Once you have the basic idea or main ingredients in mind, think of the flavour profile.

There are a varying number of elements to all of the things we taste depend on your cultural background, but essentially there are a handful of elements that compose all of the taste profiles found in the foods we eat. Western definitions of taste traditionally have broken everything down into 4 major elements:

Salty
Sweet
Sour
Bitter

Asian cultures have added the following to the list

Umami (literally “pleasant savory taste”)
Spiciness
Astringency

Step 3: Introduce the other senses

The other senses contribute to the overall experience in a variety of ways. Imagine if food didn’t have the following attributes, which in many cases provide our first impressions, the lasting memories, and our overall like and dislike of a certain dish or dining experience:

Temperature – both real and perceived (such as mint as a cooling sensation or spice as heat)
Colour – use a wide palette
Shape – create visual interest
Texture – some of each creates contrast
Mouthfeel – dry, fat, rich
Smells – avoid overpowering or distracting
Sound – noisy, difficult foods may spoil a mood or setting

And always try to remember a few guidelines as you go along:

Think outside the box – try new things
Too much of anything is never a good idea
Great dishes hit on multiple senses in a variety of ways
Look to classic combinations for inspiration, then make logical leaps: If flavours work together in one context they will do so in another. A great example of this is the recent trend of bringing savoury pantry items into desserts.

For a bit of fun, try this experiment I did with my co-workers to illustrate the above concepts.

Select four ingredients that each have a very distinct flavour on their own, but have different characteristics, and not things that you would normally think to put together. Try and touch as many elements as you can from the lists above.

I chose the following, based on what I found when I opened my cupboard and fridge:

Salt and vinegar potato chips (salty, sour, crispy)
Smooth peanut butter (creamy, nutty, smooth, salty, sweet)
Spicy red pepper jelly (sweet, spicy, cool)
Fresh cilantro leaves (astringent, umami, chewy)

Now, try combining them and see what “the whole” tastes like. We took a chip, spread it with the peanut butter, topped it with a thin layer of the jelly, a few fresh cilantro leaves, topped with another chip, and then ate the resulting “sandwich” all in one bite. We found that the dominant characteristic of each item disappeared and settled into a more harmonious balance that had an interesting combination of texture and flavour that was actually quite pleasant. Let me know what you tried and if you had a similar experience!

Next up: Let’s talk about ingredients!

The Principles of Cooking – LBB#2

Cooking ANYTHING essentially boils down to a set of four basic principles:

1. selecting ingredients according to their preferred characteristics.
2. applying processes to the raw ingredients in order to transform them into finished products.
3. using a common set of known formulas in order to achieve the goals of # 2
4. evaluating the outcome and adjusting either 2 or 3 accordingly

The fundmentals of each of the principles can then be broken down further and applied according to the individual recipe or dish you are trying to prepare.

1. Selecting:

Every ingredient has its preferred set of characteristics, and depending on the desired outcome, which of those characteristics is most important may vary greatly. A slightly under-ripe fruit may be exactly what you are looking for if you are wanting to accent its acidity, firm texture, or if it is being cooked for a long period of time. However, if it is intended to be served raw and at its ideal level of sweetness, then being at the perfect stage of ripeness and its unblemished appearance is key. However, a sauce, soup, or other item requiring a soft smooth finished texture may require the cook to search out over-ripe fruit, which ordinarily may have been removed from the produce rack and relegated to a discount shelf in the back. Making the determination before you go out shopping, or having the outcome in mind will ensure that the proper selection is contributing to the success of the finished product.

2. Processes:

Every stage in the cooking process has an impact on the final product. If you have selected the wrong product to begin with, you can never expect the desired results. Likewise with the preparation techniques, using the wrong technique or poor execution will determine or compound the results, Every part of the process, whether it is the way a product is peeled or cut before cooking; how it is prepared, mixed, or seasoned; how heat is applied and when; whether or not there is moisture present in the cooking process; and how it is treated after cooking will all affect the finished product, so here a little bit of knowledge goes along way. Understanding the basic principles of food science form your ability to not only achieve great results, but adjust for any variables you may encounter along the way.

3. Formulas:

In addition to understanding the importance of the processes and procedures one uses in the kitchen, having a repertoire of known formulas or basic recipes is essential. Cooking and baking always depend on the right combination of ingredients, the right proportions, and the right cooking method. For instance, knowing the ideal proportion of dry ingredients to liquid for whatever it is you are trying to prepare is essential. You can take the same ingredients, and by varying the proportions and methods, end up with very different results. A cake batter, pancake, muffin, biscuit, and cookie all have similar ingredients, but because all are proportioned, mixed, and cooked differently, they are all distinctly different finished items. The cook who understands the basis of these differences has then an infinite arsenal of recipes and his or her hands, and can set out to prepare a variety of things from any set of given ingredients.

4. Evaluating:

Now what if the results aren’t what you were intending? Sometimes this can be a discovery of itself, as some of the greatest recipes of all time have been “accidents”. Take Crepes Suzette, for instance. The cook turned his back for moment, in which time his sauce caught on fire. Not having time to prepare another, he tasted it, and found the result to be exceptional, so proclaimed it to have been designed that way. Knowing what the root cause to the most common problems can be allows the cook to use all of his or her senses, to make the changes necessary so that the desired results and the outcomes are aligned. This does take some trial and error at first, but an experienced cook can make adjustments on the fly in many cases and turn a potential failure into a probable success.

Learning and applying these principles in the kitchen will be the focus of this series. But before we get there, we’ll talk about how to “think like a chef”

The Chef’s Little Black Book

Today I am starting a new series – an idea I have for a book that has been sitting in a stage of partial completion for a while. If it will ever make it to print, I don’t know, but at least writing it this way I can get it all in one place and share for now as it comes together.

It starts something like this……….

Every great cook I have worked with has had his or her “little black book”, a collection of recipes and menu ideas gleaned from years of working alongside others who share the passion for food and cooking. In most cases it’s a shorthand list of formulas, great menu items, and notes to self about one’s experience spending thousands of hours behind a stove. This collection goes to form the chefs we become, and the broader one’s repertoire, the more source for inspiration there exists. I have held firmly to my belief that everyone in the kitchen makes a contribution to the knowledge base of the profession, and that collective brainpower has led me to years of inspired cooking in small restaurant kitchens and at home.

This experience and knowledge once closely scrutinized, comes down to several basic principles and approaches to food, ingredients, and technique. It is that combination that gives us the variety, as every recipe I have ever seen, know, or developed has been an extrapolation of a simple idea based on one of the fundamentals.

It is my goal in this series to share my personal collection of the basics, as well as an insight into how to take a relatively small set of ideas and turn them into an endless array of recipes, menu ideas, and memorable meals. What I want to get away from is the concept that cooking is about just following recipes. Cooking food is like playing music, my other great love. You can follow the score, but at the end of it all there are only 12 notes. Every great piece, song, or melody is derived from the ability of the composer to combine those 12 notes with an understanding of common combinations and fundamentals that work, sprinkled with a good dose of imagination and experimentation.

To transcend from merely following recipes to experiencing food in such a way that you can imagine an outcome, select the ingredients and put them together with a fairly close interpretation of what you set out to is truly a magical experience that those of us who have cooked professionally for many years probably take for granted, but one I want to share with you over the next little while.

So here it begins, my “little black book”

Dennis
January 2013

New look, New Year

Well, after being very remiss about maintaining my web presence, I have decided to start the year by totally reworking my site and upgrading it to the latest version of WordPress, along with the vast improvements in widgets and social media connectivity that have taken place over the last 5 years. Please have a poke around and the current stuff here, and I will be adding plenty of new content soon.

What’s been going on with me? Still working hard on the training initiatives with go2, which is very rewarding work. I have joined the board of the BC Chefs’ Association, to stay more connected to our industry provincially and nationally, and also have been very involved with the Potluck Cafe Society, where I am currently co-chair of their board. They are a wonderful organization providing employment and on the job training in the Downtown Eastside, through the operation of a successful catering business and small cafe on Hastings.

I’ve also been playing a lot of music with my jam band, which we share via our own web page, under the name The Mine Project. I haven’t been doing as much home recording since we record a full album’s worth of material every week at the studio, but have promised myself I’ll be doing more of that as well. In anticipation of dedicating a bit more time to writing music, I have spent some time rebuilding my music site as well as this one. It can be found at dennisgreenmusic.com.

And for food writing? Lots of ideas bottled up, and have decided that I’d rather focus on sharing my knowledge, ideas and some interesting stories from over the years rather than maintaining a continual ticker tape of what I’m eating, so will begin to capture those and post them here VERY soon.

Happy New Year

Dennis

Melbourne Day 7 – lunch in and The Press Club out

Melbourne Day 7

After several days of lunches and dinners out, and seeing as we had a big dinner planned for our Tuesday evening, we elected to stop by the Richmond Hill Café and Larder first thing in the morning and pick up the fixings for a working lunch. They were just setting up as we arrived, and we went into the cheese room to select a few that had piqued our interest on the previous visit. First was a hard, orange cheese from Normandy, Mimolette, which boasted a dark orange centre and a firm hard rind. We were offered a sample, and the flavour was firm and nutty, not unlike some of the cheeses from the Pyrenees. Second on our list was a local cheese from a Gippsland cheesemaker, called Ironstone. Slightly softer, and a bit crumbly, it was similar to a firm gouda, although a different texture. Finally we selected a triple cream we had tried at the wine shop the other day, Delice de Bourgogne.

In order to complement our cheese selections, we chose some tiny wild olives, and a fig and date loaf, a small log of compressed dried fruit and nuts, and from the pantry shop a jar of spiced mandarins, 2 breads, a french and green olive loaf, as well as three meats, some Wagyu beef sopressa, Prosciutto di Parma, and a slice of the housemade duck liver paté.

Well armed, we went into the office and at midday laid out a small feast for the 7 of us, full of an array of flavours and textures. I made a mental note on the spiced mandarins, halved, in a semi sweet syrup with spices, complete with rinds, they were a beautiful accompaniment to the firmer cheeses.

After work, we popped by a bar upstairs from the European, The Melbourne Supper Club for a drink. An elegant room appointed with antique furniture, it was a throwback to an earlier era, as were the other two places we had visited in the same building. Our server was a lovely young lady with not only a great personality, but a deep knowledge of the wine, beer, and spirit selections on the menu. She suggested two different beers for those so inclined, and a select rum and wine for the others.

Following our aperitif, we wandered down to our dinner destination, The Press Club.

Chef George Calombaris has elevated Greek cuisine to another level in his Flinders Street showpiece. The menu is composed of a la carte selections, a degustation menu, and 3 options for menus meant for sharing, called “Kerasma” We selected to try Kerasma “B”, which included small plates, “Mezedes”, appetizers, salads, fish and meats, and then sweets. We selected a Pouilly Fumé to accompany the meal, and first to arrive were a selection of breads and an olive oil from Cypress.

The arrival of the first courses, was a platter composed of mussels baked on the half shell, a delicious skewer of octopus with white sardines, some beautiful olives, and dolmathes (grape leaves stuffed with a rice and meat filling) wrapped with bresola, air dried beef. Along side we were presented with a saganaki martini, a shot glass of tomato water, with minced cucumber garnish, and a skewer of warm saganaki cheese to accompany. Both were delicious, and promised a very good meal to come indeed.

The next course was sesame crusted tuna with melon and feta, with a cherry foam. A nice combination of flavours, although we felt the tuna could have been seasoned a bit more to stand out from the sesame crust.

Salads arrived in the form of cumin roasted beetroot, yogurt cheese rolled in herbs, and attiki honey. Our server brought us each a warm pistachio biscuit, which completed a dish of extreme simplicity, but complex flavours. A second salad, an interesting combination of watermelon, feta, and walnuts with cherry tomatoes dressed lightly in olive oil was equally stunning.

We hadn’t started on the main courses yet, and first to arrive was garfish, a “small thin fish with a pointed nose”, I was told. It was delicious and tender, served “garnished greek style” with couscous, caramelized fennel, and a yogurt accompaniment. As we finished up the fish course, the piece de resistance arrived, in the form of spit roast lamb with green beans, lemon potatoes, and greek salad “horiataki”. Again, the simplicity of such classic food presented with the utmost of style and the finest ingredients will have me looking at roast lamb shoulder and greek salad in a different way forever.

Stuffed, we still had sweets to come and when they arrived, a platter of classics with the undoubted Press Club touch: Helleniko kafe pannacotta, served with Metaxa brandy jelly, milk sorbet, which was silky smooth and heavenly. Also present were a fantastic chocolate tart, an ouzo crème caramel (undoubtedly one of those dishes that prepared well is magic, prepared poorly a nightmare. This one was in the magic category), and a bowl of piping hot loukoumades, greek “donuts”, bathed in honey. A takeoff on the classic, ”Yianniatkiko baklava with vanilla bean ice cream” rounded out the selection.

Following a cup of coffee, the group of us, amply satiated, walked to our respective hotels and cars, commenting on the impressive meal we had just encountered. Reaffirmed was my belief that value doesn’t only rest in the under $10 category, as when you have a meal of such, magnitude and complexity so well prepared, the $78 a head for the menu seemed a true bargain. I have paid much more for meals of less substance and satisfaction in places of equal renown in other cities.

http://www.rhcl.com.au/

http://www.thepressclub.com.au