Tag Archives: basics

The Principles of Cooking – LBB#2

Cooking ANYTHING essentially boils down to a set of four basic principles:

1. selecting ingredients according to their preferred characteristics.
2. applying processes to the raw ingredients in order to transform them into finished products.
3. using a common set of known formulas in order to achieve the goals of # 2
4. evaluating the outcome and adjusting either 2 or 3 accordingly

The fundmentals of each of the principles can then be broken down further and applied according to the individual recipe or dish you are trying to prepare.

1. Selecting:

Every ingredient has its preferred set of characteristics, and depending on the desired outcome, which of those characteristics is most important may vary greatly. A slightly under-ripe fruit may be exactly what you are looking for if you are wanting to accent its acidity, firm texture, or if it is being cooked for a long period of time. However, if it is intended to be served raw and at its ideal level of sweetness, then being at the perfect stage of ripeness and its unblemished appearance is key. However, a sauce, soup, or other item requiring a soft smooth finished texture may require the cook to search out over-ripe fruit, which ordinarily may have been removed from the produce rack and relegated to a discount shelf in the back. Making the determination before you go out shopping, or having the outcome in mind will ensure that the proper selection is contributing to the success of the finished product.

2. Processes:

Every stage in the cooking process has an impact on the final product. If you have selected the wrong product to begin with, you can never expect the desired results. Likewise with the preparation techniques, using the wrong technique or poor execution will determine or compound the results, Every part of the process, whether it is the way a product is peeled or cut before cooking; how it is prepared, mixed, or seasoned; how heat is applied and when; whether or not there is moisture present in the cooking process; and how it is treated after cooking will all affect the finished product, so here a little bit of knowledge goes along way. Understanding the basic principles of food science form your ability to not only achieve great results, but adjust for any variables you may encounter along the way.

3. Formulas:

In addition to understanding the importance of the processes and procedures one uses in the kitchen, having a repertoire of known formulas or basic recipes is essential. Cooking and baking always depend on the right combination of ingredients, the right proportions, and the right cooking method. For instance, knowing the ideal proportion of dry ingredients to liquid for whatever it is you are trying to prepare is essential. You can take the same ingredients, and by varying the proportions and methods, end up with very different results. A cake batter, pancake, muffin, biscuit, and cookie all have similar ingredients, but because all are proportioned, mixed, and cooked differently, they are all distinctly different finished items. The cook who understands the basis of these differences has then an infinite arsenal of recipes and his or her hands, and can set out to prepare a variety of things from any set of given ingredients.

4. Evaluating:

Now what if the results aren’t what you were intending? Sometimes this can be a discovery of itself, as some of the greatest recipes of all time have been “accidents”. Take Crepes Suzette, for instance. The cook turned his back for moment, in which time his sauce caught on fire. Not having time to prepare another, he tasted it, and found the result to be exceptional, so proclaimed it to have been designed that way. Knowing what the root cause to the most common problems can be allows the cook to use all of his or her senses, to make the changes necessary so that the desired results and the outcomes are aligned. This does take some trial and error at first, but an experienced cook can make adjustments on the fly in many cases and turn a potential failure into a probable success.

Learning and applying these principles in the kitchen will be the focus of this series. But before we get there, we’ll talk about how to “think like a chef”

The Chef’s Little Black Book

Today I am starting a new series – an idea I have for a book that has been sitting in a stage of partial completion for a while. If it will ever make it to print, I don’t know, but at least writing it this way I can get it all in one place and share for now as it comes together.

It starts something like this……….

Every great cook I have worked with has had his or her “little black book”, a collection of recipes and menu ideas gleaned from years of working alongside others who share the passion for food and cooking. In most cases it’s a shorthand list of formulas, great menu items, and notes to self about one’s experience spending thousands of hours behind a stove. This collection goes to form the chefs we become, and the broader one’s repertoire, the more source for inspiration there exists. I have held firmly to my belief that everyone in the kitchen makes a contribution to the knowledge base of the profession, and that collective brainpower has led me to years of inspired cooking in small restaurant kitchens and at home.

This experience and knowledge once closely scrutinized, comes down to several basic principles and approaches to food, ingredients, and technique. It is that combination that gives us the variety, as every recipe I have ever seen, know, or developed has been an extrapolation of a simple idea based on one of the fundamentals.

It is my goal in this series to share my personal collection of the basics, as well as an insight into how to take a relatively small set of ideas and turn them into an endless array of recipes, menu ideas, and memorable meals. What I want to get away from is the concept that cooking is about just following recipes. Cooking food is like playing music, my other great love. You can follow the score, but at the end of it all there are only 12 notes. Every great piece, song, or melody is derived from the ability of the composer to combine those 12 notes with an understanding of common combinations and fundamentals that work, sprinkled with a good dose of imagination and experimentation.

To transcend from merely following recipes to experiencing food in such a way that you can imagine an outcome, select the ingredients and put them together with a fairly close interpretation of what you set out to is truly a magical experience that those of us who have cooked professionally for many years probably take for granted, but one I want to share with you over the next little while.

So here it begins, my “little black book”

Dennis
January 2013

Sweet Pastry (123 dough)

The name implies simplicity, but has more to do with the ratio of sugar, butter, and flour by weight. I like using sweet dough for two reasons: ease of use, as it is less prone to shrinkage, and taste, especially with fillings that are not overly sweet. This makes enough for 2 pie shells or about 18 individual tart shells

270 g flour (9oz)
90 g sugar (3 oz)
180 g butter, cut into small pieces (6 oz)
2 ml salt (1/2 tsp
1 egg
5 ml vanilla extract (1 tsp)

Combine flour, sugar, and salt
Add butter and work in until mealy
Beat egg with vanilla and add to flour mixture
Knead lightly until combined
Divide into two halves and pat each into a thick disc
Wrap and refrigerate for at least 1/2 hour

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To make a pre-baked shell:

Roll out and line a pie or tart shell
Dock and trim edges
Chill until cold
Line with parchment paper and weigh down with rice or dry beans
Bake in a 350 F oven for 30 minutes, or until golden brown around edges
Remove parchment and weights and return to oven for 5 minutes to colour centre lightly
Cool to room temperature
Use as directed in recipe

Smoked Salmon with Potato Crepes and Crème Fraîche

Crepes

1 cup flour
1/2 cup cooked potato, riced
pinch salt
pinch pepper

3 eggs
1 1/2 cups milk
2 tbsp vegetable oil

8 oz smoked salmon, sliced
1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

Combine flour, salt, pepper, and potato
Whisk together eggs, milk, and oil
Add to dry ingredients and mix well
Allow to rest for 1 hour, then strain before using

Heat a nonstick pan and brush with a small amount of oil.
Pour in 1/4 cup batter and swirl to distribute evenly
Cook until dry and lightly coloured on first side, flip and cook for 30 seconds more on second side
Transfer to a sheet pan to cool
Once cooled to touch, stack crepes and cover lightly until use

Top each crepe with crème fraîche and a thin layer of smoked salmon
Cut crepes in half lengthwise and roll each half into a cone shape
Serve 3-4 cones per person as an appetizer, or individually as hors d’oeuvre

Crème Fraîche

2 cups whipping cream
2 tbsp buttermilk, sour cream, or previous batch of crème fraîche

Whisk together all ingredients

Cover and stand at room temperature until thickened, 2-3 days

Refrigerate until needed